INSTALLATION MANUAL

FOR

ROCK KRAWLER SUSPENSION, INC.

TJ/LJ LONG ARM SYSTEMS

SIXTH
EDITION

6/10/10

Dear customer:  Thank you
for purchasing the best system on the market for your TJ/LJ.  We are sure you will be happy with this
system after your installation is complete.  Please take your time during the
installation and be sure to do it correctly.  Completely read the directions before starting
your installation so you know what to expect.  Remember, your personal safety depends
on it.  Should you have any
questions during this installation feel free to give our tech line a call
(518-270-9822) and we will be happy to help you.

Warning

Read and understand all
instructions, warnings and safety precautions in these instructions and your
owner’s manual before attempting to install these components.

Warning

Rock Krawler Suspension Inc.
does not condone or authorize the use of any other suspension components with
its products.  Should Rock Krawler
Systems or components be installed in junction with other products or not per
the provided instructions Rock Krawler Suspension Inc.’s warranty is void
and is not to be held accountable for any resulting actions.

Caution

Proper installation of Rock
Krawler Suspension, Inc. Products requires knowledge of recommended procedures
for disassembly/assembly of OE vehicles and components.  Access to OE shop manuals and special
tools are required.  Attempting to
install this kit without knowledge of these procedures may affect the safety of
your vehicle and or the performance of these components.  Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc. strongly
recommends that this system be installed by a certified mechanic with off road
experience.

Warning

Rock Krawler Suspension, Inc.
does not recommend combined use of suspension lifts, body lifts or other lift
devices.  Combined use of lifts may
result in unsafe and

unexpected handling
characteristics.  Also, many states
now have laws restricting

vehicle lift, bumper heights
and other alterations.  Consult
local laws to determine if your proposed alterations (including installation of
this system) comply with your state laws.

Caution

Rock Krawler Suspension Inc.
recommends the use of locktite on all hardware, unless noted otherwise.

Warning

Properly block and secure
vehicle prior to installation.

Warning

Always wear safety glasses
when using power tools

Warning

The use of limiting straps is
recommended to avoid possible damage from over extending the suspension of your
vehicle.

Helpful hint:

Do not tighten connections until assemblies are installed in
entirety.

Reference Lengths:

TJ/LJ
Front Lower Control Arm Assembled Length = 40.00”

TJ Rear Lower Control Arm Assembled Length = 29.31”

TJ 5” STRETCH Rear Lower Control Arm Assembled
Length= 33.00”

LJ/TJ FULL STRETCH Rear Lower Control Arm Assembled
Length= 39.188”

TJ Triangulated 4–Link Assembly = 36.00”

TJ 5” STRETCH Triangulated 4–Link
Assembly = 40.375”

LJ/TJ FULL STRETCH Triangulated 4–Link
Assembly = 45.76”

Front Upper Torque Arm Assembled Length = 42.782”

TJ/LJ 4.0” Front Track Bar Assembled Length =
32.50”

TJ/LJ 5.5” through 7.0” Front Track Bar
Assembled Length = 33.375”

Please
Note:  All Control Arms, Torque
Arms, Track Bars and Triangulated 4
-Link Assemblies come pre-assembled, but they require final
adjustment as specified above in the directions above.

Driving Tips:

1)
For Rock Crawling
it is best to have the front sway bar disconnected.  This will allow your suspension to do
its intended function.  Our
suspension will give your vehicle unmatched articulation which will give you
traction to keep your vehicle moving.
Let the system do the work.
This will save on vehicle abuse.

2)
For Mud,
especially sloppy mud, it is best to have the front sway bar connected.  This will limit the suspension travel
which is better for mud.

3)
For Highway
driving it is best to have the front sway bar connected.  This will give you the on highway ride
and handling characteristics you expect.  If you choose otherwise, you do so at
your own risk.

Start with the middle of
the Vehicle

1.  Park vehicle
on a level hard working surface and block the front wheels so the vehicle
cannot move.

2.  If
you have a 2003 or newer Wrangler with the automatic skid plate, please remove
it.  It will simply be in the way
for the movement of the front driveshaft at your new lift height.

3.  You do not
need to jack up the vehicle for the first part.  We will be putting in your new skid
plate center section and control arm mounts.

4.  Support the
transmission and transfer case so the OEM skid plate / belly pan can be
completely removed.  Remove the skid
plate and discard it.  Save the OEM
hardware for alignment purposes and reuse.
For Rubicon models also disconnect your air pump from the skid plate and
tie it up.  It will be reattached to
the new center skid plate member.

5. Grind down the weld bungs in the frame so they are almost
flush with the frame.  This is
required since our skid plates grab the frame by the top and the bottom which
adds a tremendous amount of structure to your frame.  See the picture below for further
details.

Skid Plate Weld Bungs

6.  Grab the driver’s side
frame rail section and get ready to put it in place.  The driver’s side bracket contains
the front upper control arm mount and lower control arm mount welded to
it.  The passenger side mount only
has the rear upper control arm mount welded to it.   Install the bracket as shown
below.  Please note;  on the 97-02 model year TJ’s the
most forward hole in the new bracket lines up with the front OEM skid plate
bolt hole, on the -03 and newer models the first OEM skid plate bolt goes in
the second hole in the new bracket.
Please see picture below.
Perform the same operation with the passenger side.  All the brake lines and fuel lines will
stay attached to the frame.  On
Rubicon models, please reroute the front locker lines on the inside of new
frame rail brackets.

Skid Plate Side Bracket (Driver’s Side Shown)

7.  There are two
ways to firmly attach these brackets to the frame.  Weld it or bolt it.

If you are going to weld it in place, then bolt it up tight
to the frame using the OEM skid plate bolts.  Then, fully weld them in place along the
front and rear leading edges and then down the side of brackets.  Be sure to weld both on top and on the
bottom of the frame.  This will give
you the most amount of structure.
Please note to prep the surfaces for weld prior to performing that
operation.

The second method is to bolt it in place.  This is more cumbersome than welding,
but still just as effective.  In the
first, third, fifth, and last holes in the frame rails, center punch the holes
and drill up vertical through the fame with a ½” drill bit.  Please note you will have to drill up
through the top plate as well.  This
is because we know the likely hood of someone drilling vertical up through the
frame and hitting a ½” hole in the top plate is very slim on all
the holes.  This is a much more sure
fire way to make it happen.  Once
the holes are drilled simply place a ½” x 5.5” bolt and
washer up through the drilled hole and secure it with the supplied nylok
nut.  No washer is needed on the
topside of the bracket.  You should
have (4) bolts holding the brackets in.
Torque them to 60 foot pounds.
See the picture below.
Perform the same operation on the passenger’s side.  Please note:  For the forward bolts you may have to
dimple the floor pan (which really isn’t hard) to gain clearance for the
top of the bolt and the nut.

Please note:
you will have to heat up the support bracket for the catalytic converter
to move it as close to the T-Case as possible so it does not contact the new
bracket.

If you have long rear upper control arms, now is a very good
time to remove the OEM Cat Back Exhaust.

Frame Rail Bolts

8. Now that the frame rails are in, we can now locate the
center skid plate.  Grab the center
skid plate.  Bring it up into
position and attach it to the frame rails using the supplied (12)
½” x 1.25” carriage bolts (smooth head) and the (12)
supplied spiral lock washers and (12) ½-13 jam nuts.  Then lower your t-case and transmission
into place and attach it to the center skid using the OEM supplied hardware.

For Rubicon Models only, perform the following; Reattach the
air pump assembly to the center skid using 3 of the four holes provided.  See picture below for visual aids.  Attach the air pump with the supplied
(2) 5/16 x 1 bolts and nylok nuts, then on the offset side, attach with the
5/16 x 2.5 bolt, nylok nut and 5/8” O.D. by 10mm I.D. x 1.625 Tubular
Spacer.

Rubicon Air Pump

9.  Now that your
center section is complete, we can begin performing the disassembly and
reassembly of your vehicle.

Let’s move to the Front End

1.  Make sure the
vehicle is still on a level hard working surface and block the rear wheels so
the vehicle cannot move.  Make sure
the emergency brake is applied.
Raise the front of vehicle and support with safety jack stands.  Locate jack stands on the frame as far
forward as possible.

2.  Remove front
rims and tires.

3.  Support the
front axle housing using a hydraulic floor jack.

4.  Remove front
shocks using 15mm box wrench for the top and 13mm socket with ratchet in
combination with 13mm box wrench on the lower bolts.  Keep original hardware to install new
shocks.

5.  Remove front sway
bar links form upper location using 15mm box wrench.  It may be helpful to use a hammer to
push up against then end of the sway bar while pulling down on the old links to
release.

6.  Remove and
replace front brake lines; following provided instructions in brake line kit.

7.  Remove front
track bar by using a T-55 torx bit on the lower axle mount then pull the cotter
pin from the top castle nut and remove castle nut.  It will be necessary to use a pickle
fork (ball joint separator) to remove the top rod end from its mount.  Discard the OEM track bar and castle nut
for they will not be reused.

8.  Remove front
spring retainer clip(s). Keep original hardware and clips to reuse on final
assembly.

9.  Remove the
OEM front upper control arms, and discard them.

10.  Lower the
front axle assembly and remove front springs.

11.  Remove the
OEM front lower control arms using 13/16 wrench and 13/16 socket with ratchet
and save the hardware for reuse. Discard the OEM lower control arms. You must
remove your OEM lower control arm mounts from the frame to allow for proper
suspension travel.  You can also
remove the front upper control arm mount off the axle on the passenger’s
side if you so desire.  This will
make your vehicle look cleaner.

12.  For the Coil Over Kit Front Ends Only; Remove
the OEM shock and spring tower from the frame and put in place the new coil
over shock tower as shown below.

Front Upper Coil Over Mount

Weld the front upper shock tower to the frame as show.  Weld both sides of each leg down the
frame.  Trim any excess that hangs
down from the frame.  The distance
the top of the tower should be from the bottom of the inside of the fender is
3.25” as shown above.  For aid
in alignment, there is a hole in the top of the tower.  This hole should be directly below the
shock hole in the fender.

Mount the front lower coil over mounting brackets as shown
below.

Place the bracket with the shorter
leg towards the front of the OEM shock bracket as shown and fully
¼” fillet weld the bracket in place on both sides.  Next, take the bracket with the longer
leg and space it 1.25” from the front bracket and fully ¼”
fillet weld it in place making sure the holes line up and you can pass a
½” bolt through the holes.

13.  Now it is
time to make the stock front upper control arm mount on the driver’s side
into a re-build-able, flexible joint.

First, pound out
the driver’s side OEM front upper control arm bushing and sleeve.  Note:  It is easier if you hit on the steel
sleeve.  If you run into trouble
drill out the rubber bushing material and then remove the entire assembly.

Second, take one
of the supplied ball joint bushings and push it in one side.  Note:  make sure the slots for the fasteners
are on top and bottom for correct orientation.  If you want to pack it with marine grade
grease, now is the time to do so!

Third, place the
supplied chrome plated ball inside the bushing and retain it in place with the
other supplied Ball Joint bushings on the other side and push it in.  Make sure the ball is oriented so that a
bolt can pass through it before going to the next step.

Fourth, place the
supplied ball joint washers on either both sides of the ball joint
bushings.  Using the supplied #10-32
x 2.00” bolts and #10-32 nylok nuts clamp the entire assembly in
place.  Torque the #10-32 bolts to
25 to 30 inch pounds.  Cut off any
extra bolt length that extends past the nut.  If you want to you should be able to
tighten the flanges to a point where they come in contact with the housing.    This is the most secure
method.   Just be sure to
torque down the bolts evenly.

14.  Remove the
OEM front upper mount off the passenger side of the front axle for it will not
be removed.   Please note; for
Triple Threat Systems you will want to mark its location and orientation to put
on the new heavy duty front upper mount!

15.  For Triple
Threat Systems only (All X Factor Systems Please Omit this Step).  Note:  Before putting in the pass. side front
upper control arm you may have to reroute the entire exhaust from the manifold
back to allow clearance for the pass. Side front upper control arm to operate.

Place the new Heavy Duty Axle Mount on the passenger side of
the axle tube in the exact location and orientation as was the OEM passenger side
front upper mount as shown below.
Then weld it in place using a ¼” fillet weld all the way
around its contact points with the axle tube as shown below.

After the mount is welded in place, then add on the two
gussets to give it lateral support as shown below.

Notes:  If you do
not feel comfident marking the location and welding it in place here is an
alternate method!

Simply complete the installation of the entire suspension
system as if it was an X Factor System using only the three link front
end.   Make sure your caster is
set properly and the front axle is square in the vehicle!  The put in the passenger side front
upper arm set to length as specified in the tables at the beginning of the
directions.  Put the Build A Ball
Assembly in the new front upper mount softly (i.e. do not fully tighten
everything down for you will want to take the bushing back out prior to welding
it in place).   Then, bolt the
upper control arm in place and attach the new mount with the Build A Ball
assembly to the upper control arm.
Make sure the Build A Ball joint is as neutral as possible and place the
mount on the axle.   Then tack
weld it in place.   Remove the
Build A Ball Joint and complete the welding sequence from above.

Apply a finish of your choice, like paint!

Then follow the steps in Step 13 for the Build A Ball joint
in the passenger side of the axle mount.
Now you have the beefiest passenger side axle mount available anywhere.

14.   Install the track bar bracket as shown
below.  Bolt the bracket to the
stock cast iron bracket with the supplied ½” x 1.75” long
bolt and nylok nut and tighten it to draw the bracket up tight.  Once the bracket is tight, drill through
the frame by center punching the holes and drilling through the frame with a
½” drill bit and mounting the bracket with the (2) supplied
½” x 4.0” long bolts and nylok nuts.

Track Bar Bracket Installed

15.  Remove the
OEM front Lower Control Arm mounts from the frame.  Please note; some sort of metal removing
tool will be required to perform this operation.

16.  Install the
front upper arm(s) as shown below.
Use the supplied 14 mm x 100mm bolt to secure the Krawler Joint into the
skid plate mount on the frame.
Please note the nut for this connection is welded into the skid plate assembly.  Use the supplied 14mm x 100mm bolt and
14mm nylok nut to attach the clevis end of the front upper arm to the new diff.
mount.  Make sure the torque arm is
installed in the proper orientation.
The angle in the clevis brackets will allow the arm to point straight
back.

Torque Arm Assembly

17.  Install Rock
Krawler lower control arms with one Krawler Joint (Spherical Joint) at the axle
mount and the Bushing End to the new lower
control arm mounting bracket in the skid plate. Be sure to set the
assembled dimension to that specified above.   Install the skid plate mount end first,
then do the axle end.  Attach the
Krawler Joints using the original hardware at the axle.  Please note:  You may want to tighten the lock nut at
the axle connection prior to installing the arm since it is hard to get to
because of the factory brackets.  For
the front end there is a specific driver’s side and passenger’s
side.  From the frame end (bushing
end), the arm bends out towards the axle mount and then down.   Once the arm is in place, orient
the joint to have maximum misalignment.
Then lock the jam nuts.  Make
sure all jam nuts stay tight.
Loctite may be required.  Do
not allow more than 5/8” of threads to show past the jam nut for final
adjustment.

Note:  The Lower Control Arms are bent for
improved ground clearance as shown below.

18.  Drill out
the lower track bar mounting hole at the axle to 9/16.  Install the Rock Krawler Adjustable
Track Bar using the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt, nylok nut and washers through
the new track bar bracket and the mounting position at the axle.

19.  Install the supplied front track
bar.  Set the dimension to that
prior specified center to center for your given application.  Use the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt and
nylok nut for the lower axle connection.
Use the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt and nylok nut to connect the track bar
to the track bar bracket.   Do
not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut for
final adjustment.

20.  For
non-coil over kits install the Rock Krawler front springs and reattach
retaining clips.   Please note:  If your vehicle does not have spring
retainer clips or they are damaged please purchase them from your local Jeep
Dealer.  This will ensure you that the
front coils do not fall out prematurely.
For LJ Owners we have also included a ¾” front coil spring
spacer that can be used on top of our 3.5” coils to remove further rake
from your LJ if you so choose.

For Coil Over Kits, put in the front coil over assembly with the Schrader Valve towards the
top using the supplied ½” x 2.75” long bolts and nylok nuts.  Tune the front coil overs to show 4.0
– 4.5” of compression.
This is best for rock crawling applications.

Adjusting the Coil
Overs!

a)       For
the 7.0” lift the coil overs should be adjusted to have an operating
measurement of 24.25” +/- 1” from mounting bolt to mounting
bolt.  This is with all of the
weight on the front coil over assembly.   Adjust the spanners on the coil
overs until your desired vehicle stance and lift is achieved.

b)       For
the 5.5” lift the coil overs should be adjusted to have an operating
measurement of 22.50 +/- 1” from mounting bolt to mounting bolt.  This is with all of the weight on the
front coil over assembly.
Adjust the spanners on the coil overs until your desired vehicle stance
and lift is achieved.

21. For non-coil over kits install the front
shocks using original hardware.  For
the 7.0” systems it is highly recommended that you install a high quality
bar pin eliminator to transition the shock travel for larger tire sizes and to
support the greater un-sprung weight of a larger tire.

22.   On the
top, connect the sway bar link assembly to the sway bar using the supplied
3/8-16UNCx 1.50 long bolt, 3/8-16UNC lock nut and 3/8”washer.  On the bottom, tighten the supplied bolt
to the OEM mounting bracket with the supplied special bolt with the jam nut and
spiral lock washer as shown.  Then
connect the sway bar link assembly to the special bolt with a supplied ½
nylon washer on each side of the Rod End and then secure it with the hair pin
as shown.  Make sure you have 5/8” of thread
engagement at a minimum for your rod ends.

23.  Install
front wheels and tires and lower front of the vehicle to the ground, check that
the front axle is centered under the vehicle.  If the axle is not centered, adjust the
Rod End on Track Bar to center the axle.
If the axle is centered, tighten all hardware to proper torque spec.
Do not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut.

24.  Disconnect
the drag link from the pitman arm.
Remove the OEM Drop Pitman Arm and install the newly supplied drop
pitman arm.  Reconnect the drag link
to the pitman arm.  Now your front
end is complete.

Please note:  If you have one of the Wranglers where
the ball joint will hit the passenger side sway bar link mount, you can either
purchase The Rock Krawler Heavy Duty X Factor Plus  Steering Upgrade for $399 or you can do
the following;

Drill a half inch hole as shown below.  Then install the sway bar link mounting
bolts to the outside of the vehicle as shown and remove the remaining material
with a metal cutting device.  You
may have to bend the sheet metal clevis brackets to make sure everything lines
up well and the disconnects are easy to remove.

Now Lets Start the Rear Assembly

1.  Park vehicle on a level, hard working
surface.  Raise rear of vehicle and
support with safety jack stands.
Locate jack stands on the frame as far back as possible.

2. Remove rear Rims
and Tires.

3. Support rear
axle using a hydraulic floor jack.

4. Remove rear
shock bolts using 18mm box wrench and a 15mm socket with ratchet.  Keep shock bolts for new shock
installation.

5. Remove upper
shock retaining bolts using 13mm socket with ratchet; keep stock bolts for new
shock installation.

6. Remove rear sway
bar link, upper bolts use 18mm socket.
Lower nuts and bolts use 15mm socket with ratchet and 18mm wrench.  Retain hardware for new rear sway bay link
installation.

7. Remove OEM rear
lower control arms using 13/16 socket with ratchet and a 13/16 box wrench and
save the hardware for reuse. You must remove your OEM lower control arm
mounts from the frame to allow for proper suspension travel.

8. Disconnect rear
brake lines from rear upper control arms.

9. Remove upper
control arms using 15mm socket with ratchet.  Retain hardware for installation of Rock
Krawler Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly.

10. Remove rear
track bar using the T-55 torx bit for the lower mount and 18mm wrench and 18mm
socket with ratchet.  This can be
discarded since it is not going to be reused.

11. Lower rear axle
using a hydraulic jack until rear springs can be easily removed.

12. Remove rear
springs.

13. FOR STRETCH KITS ONLY;

5” STRETCH SYSTEM

Mount the new spring pad and bump
stop as shown below.  First you need
to remove the following from the frame; track bar bracket and the OEM rear
upper spring mounts.   This is
a bit tricky so be careful.

a)
Locate the new spring
pad stud/bump stop holder either 5.0” back from the center of the arc as
shown above.  Then fully fillet weld
the spring pad stud/bump stop holder in place.

b)
Then weld the spring
pad plate to the spring pad stud and the frame as shown above.  This is where the spring will rest.

c)
Once it is all cooled,
apply a durable finish of your choice.   Then you can thread in the
adjustable bump stop.  Now is also a
good time to install the new spring isolators.  They are 3/4” thick poly spring
pads that will sit on top of the coil to ensure a nice quiet ride.

d)
If you are intending
to keep the rear sway bar, we have provided tabs that can be welded to the
bottom of the frame as shown above to mount the upper end of the sway bar
link.   The tab locates at the
center of the arc of the frame as shown above.

FULL STRETCH SYSTEM

Mount the new spring pad and bump
stop as shown below.  First you need
to remove the following from the frame; track bar bracket and the OEM rear
upper spring mounts.   This is
a bit tricky so be careful.

Rear Upper Coil  Mounts for Stretch Systems

e)
Locate the new spring
pad stud/bump stop holder either 9.5” back from the center of the arc of
the rear frame section or 16.5” forward from the end of the frame as
shown above.  Then fully fillet weld
the spring pad stud/bump stop holder in place.

f)
Then weld the spring
pad plate to the spring pad stud and the frame as shown above.  This is where the spring will rest.

g)
Once it is all cooled,
apply a durable finish of your choice.   Then you can thread in the
adjustable bump stop.  Now is also a
good time to install the new spring isolators.  They are 3/4” thick poly spring
pads that will sit on top of the coil to ensure a nice quiet ride.

h)
If you are intending
to keep the rear sway bar, we have provided tabs that can be welded to the
bottom of the frame as shown above to mount the upper end of the sway bar
link.   The tab locates at the
center of the arc of the frame as shown above.

14.  Remove the OEM rear upper control arm
mounts and the OEM rear track bar mount flush from the rear axle.

Install the new weld on cradle to axle.  For Dana 35/44/60, Chrysler 8.25 and
Ford 8.8 rear axles with the OEM differential cover only, center the cradle
side to side on the rear axle housing.
Using the supplied offset tool, place the thinner edge of the offset
tool flat against the differential cover with the two of the diff. cover bolts
removed.  Rotate the cradle back
until the back flat surface of the cradle contacts the thicker portion of the
offset tool as shown below.  Now the
cradle is in position.  Fully seam
weld the cradle to the axle tubes.
Once completed the offset tool is no longer needed.  Replace the two bolts in your
differential cover and apply a durable finish to the rear cradle of your
choice.  Please note:  Stock
differential cover thicknesses range from 1/8 to 3/16 in thickness.  If you have a heavy duty cover or
something other than stock you will need to account for the thickness variation
when positioning the rear cradle.

Weld In Rear Cradle

15.  Install the
weld in cradle tie in plate.
This plate makes sure the cradle can not bend and on some applications
(Dana 60’s) will allow you to join the tie in plate to the cradle and the
axle housing itself.  You may need
to trim a little off the tie in plate for it to fit properly depending on
axle.   The tie in plate sits
¼” inside the back surface of the cradle and gets welded to the
cradle and the axle, thus calling it a tie in plate.  Using a stitch weld technique is
acceptable for joining the cradle to the tie in plate, just be sure to cover
the corners well.  This gives the
cradle a nice finished look as well as add strength.  Once cooled, apply a durable finish of
your choice.   See below for an
example of what the tie in plate looks like installed.

Cradle Tie in Plate Installed

16.  Remove the
OEM Lower Control Arm mounts from the frame.  Please note; some sort of metal removing
tool will be required to perform this operation.

17.  For
Wranglers with Long Rear Uppers; you will have to disconnect and remove the
rear cat back exhaust prior to installing the rear uppers.  A custom cat back exhaust will be
required for the long rear uppers.

Install the flex
joint end of the rear upper control arm into the new mount into the skid plate
with the supplied 14mm x 70mm bolt.
Please note, the nut is already welded into the skid plate.  Install the spherical joint end of the
rear uppers into the rear cradle into the holes as shown below with the 14mm x
100mm bolts and nylok nuts.

Weld in cradle specified holes

18.  Install Rock
Krawler lower control arms with one Krawler Joint (Spherical Joint) at the axle
mount and the other Monster Bushing at the new lower control arm mounting brackets at the frame.  Be sure to set the lower control arms to
the assembled length as specified above.
Attach using original hardware.  Please install the skid plate end
first.  This will be easiest.  Please note:  You may want to tighten the lock nut at
the axle connection prior to installing the arm since it is hard to get to because
of the factory brackets.  As was
done previously on the front lower control arms, orient the lower Krawler Joint
to have maximum misalignment and lock that jam nut.  Again loctite may be required to keep
the jam nuts tight.   Do not allow more than 5/8” of
threads to show past the jam nut.

19. Trimming of the
rear spring perches for shock body clearance is required unless you use rear
shock relocation brackets or shock shifters.  Here is a picture of what it should look
like.

20.  Install Rock Krawler rear springs.

21.  Install the shocks of your choice.

For Stretch Kits only;  We have provided you with new upper
shock mounts for stem loop shocks for the rear.   Depending on what type of fuel
delivery system you are using will determine the overall placement of these
mounts.   However, the
preferred mounting location is as shown below.   Putting the shocks out the back
side of the axle and up at a slight angle gives you the maximum amount of
control.   If you have full
width axles you can do even better by out-boarding the rear shocks.

STRETCH REAR SHOCK
POSITIONING

22.  Install the Rock Krawler rear sway bar
links. Use the original bolts, nuts, and torque to 25 ft-lbs.

23.  Install rear brake line and follow
instructions contained in brake line package.

24.  Install rear rims and tires, raise
vehicle off jack stands and lower vehicle to the ground.  Check that rear axle is centered under
vehicle. If axle is not centered, adjust the Triangulated 4 -Link Assembly, Rod
Ends and Flex Joints. Note: Do
not allow more than ½” of threads to show past the jam nut.

If axle is centered, tighten hardware to
torque specs supplied.

Before Hitting the Pavement or the Trails be sure to
make sure the control arms are oriented properly, all spherical joints (heim
joints and Krawler Joints) are oriented correctly to allow for maximum movement
without bind, and all Jam Nuts are Tight.

A note about jam nuts and the consumer's
responsibility. The installer is the person or persons initially responsible
for the proper setup of the suspension system and/or components and the initial
tightening of the jam nuts. The consumer or vehicle owner is the person or
persons responsible for maintaining the jam nuts tight. Failure to do so will
result in the rapid deterioration of the threads in the control arm and will
impose a "cause for concern" for the occupants of the vehicle.
Failure to comply with the warnings headed in the directions regarding the
amount of threads showing past the jam nut will also cause the same "cause
for concern" for the occupants of the vehicle. All of the above items are
the responsibility of the vehicle owner and or installer. If a threaded section
of a component is bad it will show itself defective immediately. Threads that
fail over time are due to improper maintenance of jam nuts and can be proven
very easily. Thread sections not properly maintained or setup are not covered
under warranty. This is the end user and installer's responsibility.

Servicing of the Rock Krawler Rebuild able Joints is
unique from the rest of the industry.
We supply our joints with a plug or socket head cap screw in them.  Simply remove the plug and put in some 3
in 1 oil which is preferred or WD-40 the reinstall the plug.  We do this for many reasons.  The first is our joints are extremely
tight and will not take grease very easily.  Second, in the off-road environment
grease attracts much more dirt and debris than it is worth causing joints to
wear quickly.   Grease would
take forever to lubricate our joints since they are so tight.  3 in 1 or WD-40 is clean, simple and
lubricates quickly.  If worse comes
to worse, simply spray down the outside of our joints liberally with WD-40 or
MPL and call it a day.

Vehicle should be taken to a certified
alignment shop for castor and alignment settings

*Please note;  A little more Toe In is beneficial to
make larger tires with rough tread track properly.

The required Torque for all
14mm, 9/16 or ½ bolts not explicitly defined is 70 to 80 ft-lbs.

Good Job.  Your installation is complete.  Now go out and enjoy your vehicle.